Food and Drink in Rome

The water coming out of the little fountains around the streets of Rome is cold and refreshing, brought from the mountain springs on the outskirts of the city, and absolutely safe to drink! This kind of fountain is called “il nasone” by the Romans, as the curved pipe resembles a “big nose.” In fact, even the water at most of Rome’s decorative fountains is safe to drink (except of course for those marked “acqua non potabile”), but please refrain from using the 16th-century fountains as your private bathtub!

24-hour supermarkets

In Italy, 24-hour supermarkets are referred to as “drugstores.”

- CONAD at Termini: Downstairs in the new “Forum Termini” mall.
- CONAD at Tiburtina Station: Not the most charming place at night, but excellent for those taking overnight trains from this station or catching a bus from the square outside.
- CONAD Clodio: Via Golametto 4A, near Piazzale Clodio, about a 10 minute walk from the Vatican area.
- Museum: Via Portuense, 313, a little bit out of the average tourist’s way!
Supermarkets in general are scarce in the center of Rome. The most accessible are:

GS
The only supermarket in the historical center!
Via Monte di Farina (between Campo de’ Fiori and Largo Argentina).
Mon-Sat 9am-8pm. Bus 40 Express, 64, 62, or 492 to Largo Argentina.

Standa
A supermarket located in the downstairs section of a department store.
In Trastevere:
Viale di Trastevere, 60 (inside the Oviesse department store)
Mon-Sat 9am-8pm. Sun 8:30am-1:30pm / 4pm-8pm. Tram 8 from Largo Argentina.
Vatican area:
Via Cola di Rienzo, 173 (inside the COIN department store)
Mon-Sun 9am-8pm. Metro Line A: Lepanto or Ottaviano

Upim
Household goods and toiletries.
Via Nazionale, 211.
Mon-Sat 9am-8pm; Sun 10:30am-8pm. Bus 64 or Metro Line A: Repubblica (or a short walk from Termini).
Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore.
Mon-Sat 9am-6pm; Sun 10:30am-8pm. Two-minute walk south of Termini.

Fruit and vegetable markets

Markets are among the best spots in Rome–lively, loud, and colorful. They are usually open by 7am and close at 2pm, Mon-Sat.

- Campo de’ Fiori: The most popular market, where the austere hooded statue of Giordano Bruno overlooks dozens of colorful stalls selling fruit, vegetables, and flowers. Bus 40 Express, 64 or 62 to Largo Argentina.
- Trionfale Market: If you are on your way to the Vatican Museums, this market in Via Andrea Doria is handy and cheap. Metro Line A: Ottaviano or Cipro-Musei Vaticani.
- Piazza Vittorio: Convenient to Termini (10 minute walk to the south of the station), this large fresh fruit and vegetable market takes place in an interesting park (market located inside to the north of the piazza).
- San Cosimato: In the heart of Trastevere. Take in the true Roman atmosphere of the locals interacting early in the morning before the tourists arrive. Tram 8 to Viale Trastevere.
- Testaccio: Another authentic market–the only foreigners you’ll find here are the ones who came to Rome as tourists, fell in love with the city, and now live in this area! Metro Line B: Piramide, then a short walk down Via Marmorata.
Other fruit and vegetable markets can be found just north of Termini station in Via Milazzo and Via Montebello. The most sophisticated market is in Via Bocca di Leone, by the Spanish Steps.

Ah, bella Italia… land of culinary delights! Food and drink abound in Rome, but it’s important to know where to go to sample different things and spend different quantities of the new €.
Some terminology:

Alimentari
Grocery shop and deli, generally open 7am-1:30pm/5pm-8pm every day except Thursday afternoon and Sunday (during the summer they are often closed Saturday afternoon instead of Thursday). If you’re on the go, stop at one of these and get a fresh-made sandwich with Italian meats and cheeses, about € 1.55.

Bar
These ubiquitous establishments are known almost everywhere else in the world as “cafes.” This is where you go to get your caffè (espresso) and cappuccino. Snacks and sandwiches may be available, but really, you come here for the caffeine. Caffè is usually € 0.64; cappuccino € 0.88.
Some bars in the hip areas of the historic center become trendy hang-outs at night (you can spot them by all the unseasonably tan people milling around outside), and € 5.16 concoctions with vaguely Latin-American-sounding names replace coffee as the beverage of choice. Fun people-watching!

Enoteca
Wine shop. Usually these places sell bottles to be taken away and consumed elsewhere, but some enoteche will also offer samplings of wine by the glass. (€ 2.58 - € 5.16 for a glass; € 4.13 - € 154.94 for a bottle!)

Gastronomia
Often found in conjuction with a bar. Here you can find pre-made refrigerated sandwiches of different types, the dominant ingredient usually being mayonnaise. (€ 1.29 - € 2.58 per sandwich.)

Gelateria
Follow the dripping cones and cups to one of these places offering Italy’s unique version of ice cream, gelato. Common practice is to get three different flavors and a dollop of whipped cream (panna) on top. Good old fashioned cioccolato and vaniglia are always satisfying, and fruit flavors like fragola (strawberry) and pesca (peach) are to die for in the hotter months, but don’t be afraid to try out the Italian specialties of baci, gianduia, and zabaglione. Mmm! Depending on the size of your cup or cone, € 1.55 - € 2.58.

Grattachecca
A summer-only phenomenon–you’ll find these kiosks set up in different parts of the city, often close to the Tiber, offering shaved ice with various flavored syrups squeezed over. € 1.55 - € 2.58.

Pizzeria
Yes, that’s right. Pizza here. Usually only open for dinner, from 8pm or so. Decor may be spare, but a good forno a legna (brick oven) is all you really need anyway! Pizzas will normally cost from € 4.65 for a simple margherita, to € 6.71 for a more complex pie like the capricciosa.

Pub/Birreria
Like a British pub or American “bar,” these have become extraordinarily popular in Rome. A variety of beers on tap, plus cocktails and other alcoholic beverages. A pint of beer is around € 4.13, cocktails € 5.16; prices are usually lower in the early evening, when there’s some kind of happy hour or drink special.
There is also a sub-category of pubs called “disco-pubs,” which typically offer lower lights, higher prices, and a DJ.

Trattoria, Ristorante, Hostaria
All names for places to sit down and eat lunch or dinner. They offer a selection of appetizers (antipasti), pasta dishes (primi piatti), meat or fish dishes (secondi piatti), and side dishes (contorni). If you order one course plus house wine, expect to pay between € 7.75 - € 5.68 per person. A decent-sized meal, including house wine, will cost about € 12.91 - € 15.49. A five-course extravaganza, with all the trimmings, will set you back at least € 25.82. As a general rule, try to avoid restaurants where the menu is available in more than five languages or, worse yet, where the menu has photographs of all the different dishes.

Depending on what kind of atmosphere you want to take in, there are different areas of Rome to try out. A summary of what scene is found where in the city:

Termini:
As most of the budget hotels are located in this area, there are plenty of inexpensive restaurants to choose from, but don’t go out of your way to dine here.

Esquilino:
One of the original seven hills of Rome, this area south of Termini station is where many of the city’s immigrant communities have established their businesses. Here you will find a large concentration of ethnic restaurants, grocery stores, and take-away places, as well as shops carrying items from many different cultures, particularly Asian, African, and Indian. The triangular area southeast of the church of Santa Maria Maggiore is good for pub crawling.

Campo de’ Fiori:
This characteristic piazza and its side streets are packed with inexpensive trattorie, pizzerie, and hostarie. The dense concentration of pubs and wine bars draws a huge crowd of young Romans and foreigners alike, making it an ideal place to meet locals, students, and other travelers. On summer nights the piazza is filled with people standing around, simply enjoying the lively atmosphere.

Piazza Navona:
The most famous and theatrical of Rome’s piazzas, this is a great place to watch street performers, sample the famous “tartufo” gelato, or relax by the Baroque fountains before moving on to see and be seen, if you’re hip enough, at the cool bars in the area west of the piazza. Via del Governo Vecchio, to the west of the piazza, is lined with popular (and relatively inexpensive) restaurants and pizzerie. A short walk to the east of Piazza Navona is the Pantheon, home to some of Rome’s best gelaterias. Dining outside on either of these piazzas may take you beyond your budget, but in terms of atmosphere, you get what you pay for!

Trastevere:
Separated from central Rome by the Tiber river, Trastevere is by far the most characteristic part of town. Simply wander through the maze-like streets and you’ll have no trouble finding small, family-run restaurants that offer traditional Roman dishes. Trastevere is also home to a number of live music clubs and smaller, more relaxed pubs tucked away in back alleys. Vibrant street life.

Ghetto:
Stretching from Largo Argentina to the Theater of Marcellus along the Tiber banks is the area of the old Jewish Ghetto. Nowadays it’s a charming area with delicious bakeries and the only kosher pizzeria in Rome. It’s full of restaurants where you can enjoy home-style Roman cooking in an informal setting, and at other places, ranging in price from reasonable to very expensive, you can sample Roman Jewish cuisine with its specialties like “carciofi alla giudia.”

Testaccio:
Just south of the Aventine Hill, the district of Testaccio is arguably the best place for truly authentic Roman cuisine, as very few tourists make it down here. Late at night this part of town really comes alive for movers and shakers as most of Rome’s dance clubs are concentrated here, especially along Via di Monte Testaccio.

San Lorenzo:
Located just east of the Termini area, this is the university district of Rome, and virtually unpenetrated by tourists. Here you’ll find plenty of restaurants, pubs, and music clubs frequented by the local students and faculty.

Spanish Steps:
This monument hardly needs an introduction as it enjoys a great reputation as THE place to go in Rome to meet those handsome young Italian men. Foreign women can almost certainly expect to be offered a rose and/or marriage proposal. Go at sunset, when the light on the piazza is divine and some of the bus tour groups have left.

Aside from the famous Italian dishes that you’re already familiar with, you might want to try some of these uniquely Roman specialties:

- Pasta alla carbonara: A rich sauce made with eggs, bacon, and pecorino (a grated cheese, stronger than parmigiano).
- Pasta alla gricia: Pecorino, prosciutto (or sausages) and black pepper.
- Coda alla vaccinara: Ox-tail (!)
- Saltimbocca alla romana: Veal cutlet with prosciutto, sage, and marsala wine.
- Trippa: Intestines. Mmm.
- Carciofi alla giudia: Fried artichokes Jewish-style.
- Carciofi alla romana: Boiled artichokes pan-cooked with oil and garlic.
- Filetti di baccala’: Breaded cod fillets, deep-fried.
And you may think you already know about gnocchi, but we Romans prepare it the best! Try it on Thursdays, when it’s gnocchi night city-wide.